| On Paris' beautiful Ile de la Cité, nestled in the | | | | and gold around, and complex vaulted ceilings held up |
| confines of the Palais de Justice complex and | | | | by ornate pillars, all very beautiful; still there had to be |
| protected from the river Seine by the mighty and | | | | more to this place. |
| foreboding one-time prison of Marie Antoinette, the | | | | I mounted the stairs. These led to the upper chapel |
| Conciergerie, lies the sublime church Sainte-Chapelle, a | | | | reserved for the French royalty of centuries before. |
| must-see for anyone visiting Paris for the first time, | | | | Having read about Sainte-Chapelle in several guide |
| and for those of us who return to it each time we | | | | books, I had the sense that I knew fairly well what to |
| return to Paris, as a kind of sacred pilgrimage. | | | | expect. But when I entered the upper chapel, nothing |
| Sainte-Chapelle is a 13th century (consecrated 1248) | | | | had prepared me for what I saw there. On three sides |
| structure begun under the auspices Louis IX, who | | | | soared spectacular stained glass looking more beautiful |
| would later become Saint Louis, to house various | | | | than any architectural feature I had ever seen in my |
| religious relics of the Passion of Christ, such as Jesus' | | | | relatively broad travels; and the magnificent rose |
| Crown of Thorns. | | | | window was behind me; above was a star-studded |
| The first time I visited I purchased a combination | | | | vaulted ceiling. The sight may leave you speechless, |
| discount ticket which also allowed me entrance to the | | | | and you might just wish to assume the fetal position |
| Conciergerie. Before I was allowed to enter | | | | and die on the spot, because <B>now you have |
| Sainte-Chapelle, my backpack was searched | | | | seen everything.</B> |
| thoroughly, and this was long before 9/11. It was a | | | | I took a page from Rick Steves' travel guidebook and |
| rather warm early afternoon, and my Sainte-Chapelle | | | | stood near the stairs to watch the reactions of |
| experience was getting off to a poor start standing | | | | first-time visitors. Many of them stood there, their |
| there in the sun. | | | | mouths agape in awe at the place. Do go and see it |
| I was finally let into the lower chapel, which was used | | | | for yourself! |
| by the parish, the commoner. This was all well and | | | | Metro: Cité. (There are other Metro choices, but I |
| good, very . . . and very French, with lots of red, blue | | | | feel Cité gives you the most interesting stroll. |